Talking about Central Asia with Rachael

On May 13, we spoke to Rachael about her recent solo travels to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Here is a recording from the talk.

Questions and answers

(Here is a summary of our discussions)

Are there direct flights from Singapore/Vietnam to Almaty?
Answer: There are no direct flights from Singapore and Vietnam to Almaty(Kz). You can fly from Kuala Lumpur (KL) via AirAsia, which started flights late last year. Other routes include flying via China, Turkey or India (not advisable as one needs a transit visa).

What is the cost of traveling around Central Asia?
Answer: The living costs in Central Asia are similar to Thailand or Vietnam. A return ticket from Malaysia to Almaty costs around 400 to 500 USD. Local expenses like food, lodging and transportation are affordable .

How about the people?
Kazakhstan is more modern in terms of people’s outlook, fashion, architecture and technology. Kyrgyzstan is more traditional. Kazakhstan is also more diverse with multiple ethnicities - Kazakhs, Russians, Koreans and Germans (latter two were resettled from border areas of the Soviet Union to Kz during the World War years).

Is couch surfing safe?
Answer: Couchsurfing.com is a website where you can look for locals who will host you for free. You may want to cook something or run some errands for the host in return. Couch surfing can be safe if you follow certain precautions. Look for hosts with good references and prefer staying with female hosts if you are a woman. Always inform someone back home about your location and stay in touch with them .

Do people in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan speak English?
Answer: English is not widely spoken in these countries. In cities, some people might speak English, but in rural areas, Kazakh/Kyrgyz and Russian are more common. Using Google Translate and learning basic Russian phrases can be helpful .

Should I buy a local SIM card upon arrival?
Answer: Yes, it is advisable to buy a local SIM card for internet access and booking taxis. In Kazakhstan, you can buy a SIM card at the airport for around 10 USD. In Kyrgyzstan, a SIM is around 4 USD.

How is the weather in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan?
Answer: The weather can be quite cold, especially during winter, with temperatures dropping to sub-zero levels. It’s advisable to visit during summer if you plan to do outdoor activities like hiking .

Is it easy to use international cards at ATMs?
Answer: Yes, you can use international Visa and MasterCard at ATMs in both Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. However, the withdrawal fee might be high, so it’s better to exchange currency beforehand .

How do you handle the language barrier when hitchhiking?
Answer: Using Google Translate and learning basic phrases can help. For hitchhiking, use universal gestures like thumbs up and write the destination name on a piece of paper . Carry a marker pen and A4 size paper. Most people Rachel hitchhiked with were nice. Rachael also suggested having a photo of a “boyfriend/husband” on the phone in case some guys get too interested in you.

What are the best alternatives to couch surfing?
Answer: Free stay alternatives to couch surfing include using platforms like BeWelcome, Host a Sister. For those who are not comfortable with staying in someone’s house, hostels or dormitories are the default options.

How is the food situation?
Answer: Kazakh and Kyrgyz cuisine includes a lot of meat such as horse, cow, and sheep. As a vegetarian, options might be limited, but Korean food is also available in Kazakhstan and quite good. A unique drink to try in Kyrgyzstan is salty milk .

Places visited by Rachael

• Ala-Archa Nature Park: A popular destination for hiking, picnicking, and mountain climbing, located just south of Bishkek in the Tian Shan mountains. Wikipedia
• Altyn Arashan: Renowned for its hot springs and picturesque alpine scenery, it is a remote valley in the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Wikipedia
• Kok-Jaiyk Valley: A serene and lush valley known for its vibrant wildflowers and gentle streams, ideal for leisurely hikes and nature walks.
• Jeti-Ögüz Rocks: Famous for its dramatic red sandstone formations, this area is also known as the “Seven Bulls” and is a symbol of Kyrgyzstan’s natural beauty. Wikipedia
• Charyn Canyon: A striking canyon known for its colorful rock formations and vistas, often called the Grand Canyon’s smaller cousin. Wikipedia
• Lake Kaindy: A unique and visually stunning lake known for its submerged forest and the dramatic limestone cliffs that surround it. Wikipedia

Wikivoyage links to the discussed countries (kind of open source version of Lonely Planet)

• Kazakhstan: Wikivoyage page for Kazakhstan
• Kyrgyzstan: Wikivoyage page for Kyrgyzstan

Thank you Rachael for joining us and sharing. Thanks to all the participants too.

We met at a Tibetan restaurant for a Central Asian gathering. Interestingly, the Tibetan Empire once extended into Central Asia. We tried Tibetan salt tea. SK shared his experiences in the ‘stans,’ including Afghanistan. One participant had spent over a year riding a motorbike across Russia and Central Asia. We also discussed other travels in the region and some low-tech methods of staying cool in hot and humid Bangkok.

Hidden Bangkok, and Coffee and AI with Ruchida

We had two meets on Bangkok recently. Ruchida joined us from Bangkok to share her life as a young technology and coffee professional. Ruchida explained how she balances her dual careers, how she learns new things and where young Thai people hang out. We discussed interesting neighborhoods like Ari. Ruchida encouraged us to join tech events and meetups in Bangkok to connect with locals.

Notes from the “Hidden Bangkok” meetup

Neighbourhoods to explore

Ari: Youthful area with inexpensive food near the train station, and more classy places as you move away. Pretty cafes and good places to connect with people. Walk west from Ari station. Cheaper food is closer to the station. Ari 4 Fang Nua Alley has nice cafes and sharp people.

 The food streets around Chulalongkorn university are also a good venue to find inexpensive food (some with live music) and talk to people. The mostly student crowd here are happy to discuss stuff with you. Try Banthat Thong road (South of Rama 1 road).

 Nakhon Sawan Road: The books alley has many bookshops, mostly selling Thai books but good to observe what locals are reading.

New Chinatown in Huai Khwang: diverse mainland China food. This is where the new immigrants from China live. Walk east from Huai Khwang MRT along Pracha Rat Bamphen Road.

Deep alleys along Sukhumvit: Try alley 33 for the Tibetan and Georgian restaurants, more colourful naughty stuff further along the alley. Most parallel alleys are similar. The neighbourhood is also one of the Japanese parts of Bangkok.

 The Arab Quarter: Besides Nana, BTS is one of the largest Arab towns in the world. Try food from North Africa and the Middle East.

Koreatown: Near Asok BTS, several Korean restaurants in one building.

Kudejeen - The Portuguese settlement in Bangkok (thanks to one of our participant for recommendation)

Connecting with locals

Ari is a good neighbourhood to connect with locals as most people here are younger and speak English. The cafe or eatery area around the universities also have English speaking people.

Some topics that interests people

• Technology stuffs: new gadgets, photography, AI etc
• Travel: Japan is a popular destination
• Music: Thai independent musicians
• Latest happening in Thailand: the young people are well informed about the politics and happenings in Thailand.

Spaces and events:

Bangkok has several meetups in English and probably the most diverse foreign population of young professionals anywhere in Asia. Try some of the books, philosophy, language exchange and Nomad meets. They are almost always held near a train station. Dasa Books near Phnom Phong BTS is the best pre-owned bookstore in South East Asia.

There are also event spaces such as Palette where local artists host exhibitions.

Chang Chui Creative Park

Caravanserai in Bangkok

 We have also started meeting in Bangkok. We explore Bangkok’s ethnic areas and talk to interesting people. Go back to the main page to see if we have any upcoming meet in Bangkok.

Other links:

The Bangkok Podcast

We met in Bangkok to discuss translated short stories. Translations allow us to explore how people from different cultures think and react to situations.

Here are some of the stories we discussed.

The Deserted City by Achariya Hang, translated from Khmer by Socheata Huot and George Chigas. (thanks, Phina So). The Deserted City by Achariya Hang, translated from Khmer by Socheata Huot and George Chigas. (thanks, Phina So).

So What’s Your Name, Sandra? By Norman Erikson Pasaribu, translated by Tiffany Tsao So What’s Your Name, Sandra? By Norman Erikson Pasaribu, translated by Tiffany Tsao