We had Kristia from Jakarta joining us to talk about her trip from Jakarta to Jordan, most of it over land and solo.  Here is the recording.

Here are some notes from our discussions:

Kristia’s overland journey covered a vast stretch from Southeast Asia to the Middle East. Here’s a summary of her route:

- Started in Jakarta, Indonesia

- Flew to Singapore

- Traveled through Malaysia, focusing on the eastern part

- Went to Thailand, visiting the northern areas

- Entered Laos

- Took the new China-Laos railway to enter China

- Explored western China, including Yunnan province and areas with Tibetan culture

- Visited Tibet (with required permits)

- Entered Nepal

- Traveled across India, visiting cities like Varanasi, Agra, Jaipur, and Delhi

- Crossed into Pakistan

- Made an unplanned detour into Afghanistan

- Entered Iran

- Took a ferry from southern Iran to Dubai, UAE

- Traveled to Saudi Arabia

- Ended the journey in Jordan

Kristia  mostly traveled overland, with a few exceptions like flying from Jakarta to Singapore and taking a ferry from Iran to Dubai. Her route through western China (Tibetan areas in Sichuan and Yunnan) allowed her to experience Tibetan culture without needing special permits required for the Tibet Autonomous Region. The trip to Afghanistan was not initially planned but added after researching its feasibility. The entire journey took about 6 months.

Kristia’s experience in Afghanistan was quite interesting and different from what many people might expect.

Here are the key points about her time there:

- Unplanned visit: She initially didn’t plan to go to Afghanistan but decided to visit after her brother went there.

- Safety perception: Kristia mentioned that some travelers told her it was currently the safest time to visit Afghanistan in decades, due to the lack of active warfare following the Taliban takeover.

- Permits: She obtained necessary permits to travel between provinces, which is required for foreigners.

- Information gathering: Kristia relied heavily on WhatsApp and Facebook groups for up-to-date information from other travelers and locals about safety and logistics.

- Local reception: She found that the Taliban, who were generally accepting of her presence, viewed being Indonesian positively.

- Security measures: Despite the relative calm, there were still strict security measures in place, such as hotels with security barriers.

- Travel method: She mentioned sharing taxis with other travelers to visit places like Bamyan, known for its destroyed Buddha statues.

- Precautions: Kristia contacted the Indonesian embassy in Afghanistan and kept them informed of her whereabouts for safety reasons.

- Cultural considerations: She had to be mindful of appropriate dress and behavior, especially as a woman.

- Comparison to expectations: Kristia found the experience less dangerous than many might assume, though she acknowledged the need for caution and awareness.

Overall, while Kristia’s experience in Afghanistan was positive, she emphasized the importance of staying informed, respecting local customs, and taking necessary precautions when traveling in such regions.

Questions

Q: Did you feel unsafe traveling solo in Shangri-La?

A: Kristia felt very safe in China, including Shangri-La. She mentioned the high level of control and surveillance actually made her feel safer.

Q: How did you get around? How to know where to catch a ride or transport?

A: Kristia relied on online research, asking locals, and using Google Translate. She emphasized figuring things out step-by-step rather than planning everything in advance.

Q: How do you get data access during your journey? Or are you off the grid most of the time?

A: She used a combination of roaming with her Indonesian SIM card and buying local SIM cards. She recommended getting local SIM cards when possible for easier access to local apps.

Q: What concerns did you have during your long trip? How did you do your banking?

A: Kristia could use her Indonesian credit cards in most countries except Iran. She advised having multiple cards and some cash. For Iran, she brought US dollars and Chinese yuan.

Q: How did you navigate safety as a solo female traveler?

A: Kristia mentioned paying more for safer accommodations and transport, avoiding traveling at night, and always sharing her location with family. She also contacted Indonesian embassies in countries she perceived as riskier.

Q: Did you need additional permits to travel around Shangri-La?

A: No additional permits were needed for Shangri-La, only for the Tibet Autonomous Region.

Q: What was your favorite place all along?

A: While she enjoyed aspects of every country, Kristia mentioned Pakistan and Iran as places she’d like to revisit and explore more thoroughly.

Q: Were people in countries like Pakistan or Afghanistan familiar with Indonesia?

A: Yes, Kristia found that Indonesia had a good reputation in Islamic countries. Many people were familiar with Indonesia, often through Indonesian foreign workers or Indonesia’s stance on issues important to Islamic countries.

Thanks to Kristia for joining us. Thanks to Nico for connecting me to Kristia and thanks to all the participants for the questions and interesting discussions.

Links:

[Kristia Davina Sianipar (@kristiasianipar) • Instagram photos and videos by Krisita](https://www.instagram.com/kristiasianipar/)

June was a busy month for us. By some good fortune, we ended up with several meets across Southeast Asia.

In Singapore, we discussed Sri Lanka over some food from the serendipitous island. We talked about Sri Lanka’s history, including its cycles of kingdoms created by locals and neighboring Indian regions, its colonizations by the various European powers, independence, and civil war. We also covered topics like travel, the China-India rivalry and its impact on Sri Lanka, the economy, and of course, cricket.  (Thanks to Tristan for the photo)

In Bangkok, we discussed the Philippines. We talked about how it has become a low-cost place for Japanese, Koreans, and now Chinese to learn English, leading to the growth of English learning startups. We explored the colourful movie industry, the popularity of fast food chain Jollibee, local politicians, and the cultural impact of many Filipinos working overseas, such as the Balikbayan box. We also discussed travels to the various islands in the Philippines.

In Jakarta, we returned to Little Tokyo (where we had some meets in the mid-2010s) to explore the neighborhood and try some Japanese food. We discussed recent happenings in Indonesia, travels to faraway islands, the increasing ease of travel for Indonesians, travel literature, and life in urban Indonesia.

We gathered in Saigon (and on Zoom) to share our travel stories, observations, and more. We discussed technology adoption in China, the various political factions in Japan, sustainable gardens in Vietnam and Singapore, water festivals in Thailand, Korean popular culture in India, using artistic talents to support travel, and how thrilling adventures can sometimes be found right in your own neighborhood rather than far away.

Thanks to all the participants for your stories and photos.

Living, working and traveling in China featuring Stephanie and EE

Stephanie joined us on 23 May, 2024 to discuss traveling, living and working in China. We had EE join us in June to talk about her experience as a student in China.

Our discussions with Stephanie.

1. Living Experience in China

Friendly Locals: Stephanie and others shared experiences of Chinese hospitality and friendliness. Despite cultural differences and stereotypes about loudness or rudeness, locals are often warm-hearted and curious about foreigners. Taking slow trains is a good way to connect with curious locals.

Cultural Adjustments: Understanding and adjusting to local customs is important. Learning basic Chinese can greatly enhance the living experience, making it easier to navigate and communicate.

Daily Life: Digital payments through WeChat and Alipay are ubiquitous. These apps are essential for transactions, from grocery shopping to booking taxis. However, having some cash on hand is advisable, especially for smaller or less tech-savvy vendors.

Stephanie enjoyed living in Zhengzhou, Henan Province, appreciating the blend of historical significance of the region and the modern conveniences. Despite initial fears and cultural adjustments, she found the locals to be genuinely friendly and helpful.

EE completed a master’s degree in China and found the academic environment rigorous but rewarding. Highlighted the curiosity and friendliness of Chinese people towards international students.

2. Working in China (as a teacher)

Teaching: There are opportunities for English teachers, especially in international schools. However, there is a strong preference for native speakers from Western countries (US, UK, Australia). Non-native speakers or those from non-Western countries might face challenges. Persistence is key. Using LinkedIn and directly applying to schools via WeChat can be effective strategies. Some schools, particularly in smaller cities or less popular provinces, may be more open to hiring non-native speakers.

Teachers are highly respected in China, and students are generally very disciplined and academically focused. This cultural norm extends to local and international teachers. Chinese students are dedicated and often have long study hours. They are curious and show a keen interest in learning about cultures outside China. Kim (who also teaches in China) noted the academic focus and curiosity of students. Highlighted the challenges and changes in the job market post-COVID-19.

3. Travel Tips

Use WeChat and Alipay for most transactions. However, carry some cash for emergencies or smaller vendors who may not accept digital payments.

Use local map apps like GaoDe (Amap) and Baidu Maps. These apps are in Chinese, so basic knowledge of the language can be helpful.

For popular attractions and train tickets, book in advance through apps like Trip.com and Meituan (thanks Rebekah). Some places may require advance reservations even for free entry.

High-speed trains are a fast and convenient way to travel between cities. Train stations for high-speed rail are often separate from regular train stations, so plan accordingly.

4. Recommended Destinations for first time China visitors

Henan Province: Besides Zhengzhou, visit historical cities like Kaifeng, Luoyang (known for the Longmen Grottoes), and Anyang (famous for oracle bone inscriptions).

Guilin and Yangshuo are good for first time China visitors. Known for their natural beauty and cultural experiences. Xian (for the history) and Kunming (for the weather) are other good first cities to visit. Chengdu also.

In June 2024, we had EE join us and talk about her life in China.

Talking to EE about her student life in China (2017 to 2019)

We had EE who studied for her MBA in China just before the COVID years join us for a chat. We were interested in learning how China was changing during that time (2017 to 2020). EE had an interest in China since Junior College and took up Chinese studies in English, hence the decision to move to China to study.

1. Location and Experience in Haining:

• E E lived in Haining, a tier three or four city, which was relatively rural but strategically located between Shanghai and Hangzhou.
• The campus where E E studied was newly built and large, but sparsely populated initially.
• The campus aimed to attract international students through scholarships and had Western-style facilities, including single dormitory rooms.
• Foreign students, especially those with Western looks, received significant attention from locals initially.

2. Language and Education:

• Courses were taught in English, which was a challenge for some Chinese professors due to their proficiency primarily in reading and writing rather than speaking.

3. Urban Development and Changes:

• E E observed rapid development in Haining and major cities like Shanghai and Hangzhou, including advancements in technology and infrastructure.
• Notable changes included the shift from cash and card payments to Alipay and facial recognition payment systems.
• E E mentioned tightening security, such as facial recognition for jaywalking and stricter entry protocols in various places.
• There was a noted shift in the atmosphere, with increasing nationalism in the society and more emphasis on local festivals.
• Foreign friends who remained in China faced difficulties with work and travel back home, especially during and after the COVID-19 pandemic.

4. Travel and Local Life:

• E E traveled extensively within China, primarily using high-speed trains, and noted the differences between larger cities and smaller towns.
• Observations included changes in street food culture and the increasing presence of organized hawker centers.
• E E still recommends people to travel to China as it is a safe and diverse destination.

Talking about Central Asia with Rachael

On May 13, we spoke to Rachael about her recent solo travels to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Here is a recording from the talk.

Questions and answers

(Here is a summary of our discussions)

Are there direct flights from Singapore/Vietnam to Almaty?
Answer: There are no direct flights from Singapore and Vietnam to Almaty(Kz). You can fly from Kuala Lumpur (KL) via AirAsia, which started flights late last year. Other routes include flying via China, Turkey or India (not advisable as one needs a transit visa).

What is the cost of traveling around Central Asia?
Answer: The living costs in Central Asia are similar to Thailand or Vietnam. A return ticket from Malaysia to Almaty costs around 400 to 500 USD. Local expenses like food, lodging and transportation are affordable .

How about the people?
Kazakhstan is more modern in terms of people’s outlook, fashion, architecture and technology. Kyrgyzstan is more traditional. Kazakhstan is also more diverse with multiple ethnicities - Kazakhs, Russians, Koreans and Germans (latter two were resettled from border areas of the Soviet Union to Kz during the World War years).

Is couch surfing safe?
Answer: Couchsurfing.com is a website where you can look for locals who will host you for free. You may want to cook something or run some errands for the host in return. Couch surfing can be safe if you follow certain precautions. Look for hosts with good references and prefer staying with female hosts if you are a woman. Always inform someone back home about your location and stay in touch with them .

Do people in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan speak English?
Answer: English is not widely spoken in these countries. In cities, some people might speak English, but in rural areas, Kazakh/Kyrgyz and Russian are more common. Using Google Translate and learning basic Russian phrases can be helpful .

Should I buy a local SIM card upon arrival?
Answer: Yes, it is advisable to buy a local SIM card for internet access and booking taxis. In Kazakhstan, you can buy a SIM card at the airport for around 10 USD. In Kyrgyzstan, a SIM is around 4 USD.

How is the weather in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan?
Answer: The weather can be quite cold, especially during winter, with temperatures dropping to sub-zero levels. It’s advisable to visit during summer if you plan to do outdoor activities like hiking .

Is it easy to use international cards at ATMs?
Answer: Yes, you can use international Visa and MasterCard at ATMs in both Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. However, the withdrawal fee might be high, so it’s better to exchange currency beforehand .

How do you handle the language barrier when hitchhiking?
Answer: Using Google Translate and learning basic phrases can help. For hitchhiking, use universal gestures like thumbs up and write the destination name on a piece of paper . Carry a marker pen and A4 size paper. Most people Rachel hitchhiked with were nice. Rachael also suggested having a photo of a “boyfriend/husband” on the phone in case some guys get too interested in you.

What are the best alternatives to couch surfing?
Answer: Free stay alternatives to couch surfing include using platforms like BeWelcome, Host a Sister. For those who are not comfortable with staying in someone’s house, hostels or dormitories are the default options.

How is the food situation?
Answer: Kazakh and Kyrgyz cuisine includes a lot of meat such as horse, cow, and sheep. As a vegetarian, options might be limited, but Korean food is also available in Kazakhstan and quite good. A unique drink to try in Kyrgyzstan is salty milk .

Places visited by Rachael

• Ala-Archa Nature Park: A popular destination for hiking, picnicking, and mountain climbing, located just south of Bishkek in the Tian Shan mountains. Wikipedia
• Altyn Arashan: Renowned for its hot springs and picturesque alpine scenery, it is a remote valley in the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Wikipedia
• Kok-Jaiyk Valley: A serene and lush valley known for its vibrant wildflowers and gentle streams, ideal for leisurely hikes and nature walks.
• Jeti-Ögüz Rocks: Famous for its dramatic red sandstone formations, this area is also known as the “Seven Bulls” and is a symbol of Kyrgyzstan’s natural beauty. Wikipedia
• Charyn Canyon: A striking canyon known for its colorful rock formations and vistas, often called the Grand Canyon’s smaller cousin. Wikipedia
• Lake Kaindy: A unique and visually stunning lake known for its submerged forest and the dramatic limestone cliffs that surround it. Wikipedia

Wikivoyage links to the discussed countries (kind of open source version of Lonely Planet)

• Kazakhstan: Wikivoyage page for Kazakhstan
• Kyrgyzstan: Wikivoyage page for Kyrgyzstan

Thank you Rachael for joining us and sharing. Thanks to all the participants too.

We met at a Tibetan restaurant for a Central Asian gathering. Interestingly, the Tibetan Empire once extended into Central Asia. We tried Tibetan salt tea. SK shared his experiences in the ‘stans,’ including Afghanistan. One participant had spent over a year riding a motorbike across Russia and Central Asia. We also discussed other travels in the region and some low-tech methods of staying cool in hot and humid Bangkok.